Call it by any name – chudiyaan, kangan, valayal or valla – bangles are an integral part of an Indian woman’s attire. While these only serve to enhance the beauty of a woman, they are much more than just simple accessories that adorn the wrist. A rich history of tradition and culture are attached to these items of fashion and tradition.
The use of bangles by earlier civilizations was first discovered when a figurine of a dancing girl was excavated from Mohenjedaro (means Mound of the Dead in the Sindhi language) – an ancient city and a contemporary of the Egyptian and Roman city states which were once prosperous 2500 years ago. The left arm of the dancing girl was adorned with bangles – proof that they were considered an integral part of a woman’s attire even in those days. What followed was a flurry of discoveries, starting with the excavation of copper bangles at Mahurjari. Close on its heels was the discovery of some pieces belonging to the Mauryan Empire as well as the excavation of gold ones from the historic site of Taxila. The time line of these civilizations revealed that bangles were a part of the culture of India as far back as 6th Century BC.
The wearing of bangles continues to be a vibrant tradition throughout India. A traditional wedding in the Eastern state of Bengal calls on the bride to wear three types of this item: conch shell bangles, lacquer bangles as well as iron bangles. Each one holds its own significance, for instance the iron ones or ‘loha’ signify a gift by the mother-in-law to the bride. Shell ones as well as the ones made of red coral adorn the hands of married woman in Bengal and serve as a symbol of her marital status. Ivory pieces or choodas, as they are famously known, adorn the wrists of young brides in the northern states, for a period of 21 days to a year after marriage, depending on the customs of the family of the bride. Rajasthani women, on the other hand, are seen wearing them from their wrists to their upper arms from the day of their marriage to the day they are widowed. Married Maharashtrian women prefer glass ones in green, which is considered an auspicious color, while elsewhere in the country women adorn their wrists with red ones to symbolize their marital status and well-being of their husbands.
Derived from the Hindi word ‘bungri’ meaning ‘glass’, bangles found through excavations all over the country suggest that terracotta, shell, copper, bronze, silver, and gold were among the preferred materials for bangles back in those days. These days too, the wide range made of precious and non-precious metals give women a huge variety to choose from although glass and ones are still preferred for more traditional events like weddings and pujas, and plastic ones or glass ones along with gold or silver pieces for daily use.
Bangles are not, however, limited to only traditional attire. Recent trends show Indian women using them as fashion accessories with modern, western outfits. Not only do these create a stylish and chic look, but they also successfully reflect the Indian woman of the 21st century, who is a perfect balance of traditional values and a contemporary outlook. From five year old girls to seventy year old grandmothers, bangles are a favorite accessory of women across age groups and regions.
